In my years spent as a newspaper and magazine columnist I’ve reviewed thousands of wines but it has been rare if ever that I afforded particular focus and attention to the importers in Ireland. The world of wine is vast, diverse and ever-evolving, and indeed the importers here reflect that vibrant variety. In a new series, I aim to shine a spotlight on this world, the people, the wines and the stories within.
Certain regions remain underappreciated despite their incredible quality with South Africa being one such region, and Steve Hawken, founder of Rainbow Nation Wines (rainbownationwines.ie), is on a mission to change that perception in Ireland.
A Passion Born in the Cape
For Hawken, the journey into the world of wine began during his college days in Cape Town. “My friends and I attended many wine events, and my affection for South African wine grew from there,” he recalls. It was a passion that stayed with him, and in 2021, amid the turbulence of COVID-19, he decided to turn that passion into a business.
During the pandemic, the South African government imposed a series of bans on alcohol sales, creating immense challenges for the country’s winemakers. Recognising the hardship faced by producers, Hawken instead saw an opportunity to support them and thus, Rainbow Nation Wines was born.
Why South African Wines?
One of Hawken’s key objectives is to display this winemaking diversity and to challenge the existing perceptions of South African wine. “Most Irish wine drinkers think of South Africa as only offering cheap Chenin Blanc and Pinotage, which has flooded the market for a number of years. My goal is to show that they have much more to offer.”
Despite South Africa’s long winemaking history, Hawken feels there is huge scope to showcase the diversity of the country’s wines in Ireland. “The region is still relatively underappreciated and underrepresented in Ireland. With over 500 vineyards, South African producers have so much quality to offer the market, representing outstanding value,” he says. Indeed, the country boasts an extraordinary range of styles and grape varieties, from elegant Chenin Blancs to world-class Bordeaux blends and yet many Irish consumers remain unfamiliar with its full potential.
Curating a Unique Portfolio
So from such a broad range of winemakers, how does Hawken create a clear and concise portfolio? His approach is refreshingly straightforward; he naturally refuses to stock anything he wouldn’t drink himself. “I try to stick to a simple methodology: We Source – We Taste – We Buy – We Sell,” Hawken states.
Beyond personal taste, the focus lies on supporting small, independent, family-owned producers who offer exceptional quality at a fair price. These wineries often lack the large-scale marketing budgets of their European or New World counterparts, yet they produce some of the most exciting wines available today.
The Challenges of Wine Importing
The task of importing these hidden gem wines from South Africa is not without its problems and the financial and logistical hurdles of transporting wine from the Southern Hemisphere adds layers of complexity, which Hawken admits “is an expensive process”. Regulatory barriers also play a significant role. “Wine is strictly controlled, and the amount of work and attention to detail required to import can be cumbersome,” he says.
Beyond the financial and bureaucratic challenges, there is also the issue of consumer mindset. “Many people in Ireland stick to what they know, which is challenging for an online wine merchant, as we need to work extra hard to convince them what we’re selling is worth it.” It’s a slow process, but with education and exposure, Hawken is confident that Irish drinkers will come to appreciate the depth and breadth of South African wines.
Looking to the Future
Currently, Rainbow Nation Wines operates exclusively online, shipping directly to consumers across Ireland. But Hawken has ambitious plans for the future. “As the business grows, it is our plan to offer ‘on trade’ sales, to enable a further reach of South African wines into the Irish hospitality industry.”
Such an expansion would help introduce South African wines to a wider audience, allowing more consumers to experience their unique character and exceptional value first hand.
For Hawken, the most exciting aspect of the wine trade is its endless depth. “There is so much to learn. You could be in the trade for years and still learn something new each day.”
As he continues to champion South African wines in Ireland, it’s clear that Rainbow Nation Wines is not just about selling bottles, it’s about telling the stories behind them, fostering appreciation, and ultimately reshaping perceptions. With Hawken at the helm, the future of South African wine in Ireland looks brighter than ever. The following wines represent a microcosm of Rainbow Nation Wines’ portfolio but perhaps will demonstrate the broad nature of South African wines in terms of variety, quality, diversity and value for money from entry level to premium.
Rondebosch Chardonnay 2023 ABV 13% €14.95
From the Breede River Valley in the Western Cape, this comes with lean ripe stone fruit on the nose, fresh but with fleshy character. And this is extended to the palate, fresh, clean and well-made entry level Chardonnay. Just a hint of oak here, this is a superb chardonnay for the price and represents great value.
Buy here https://rainbownationwines.ie/products/rondebosch-chardonnay
Marras “The Trickster” Cinsault ABV 12% €18.95
Cinsault is hugely important in South African, crossed with pinot noir to create the country’s most famous grape. A beautiful soft light colour in the glass, this in complete contrast to the Cabernet lead Bordeaux styles from elsewhere. Funnily cinsault is often dubbed the pinot noir of Swartland and like pinot is soft, light, velvety smooth. However, this is more akin to gamay from Beaujolais with its affable easy drinking and balanced style, awash with ripe and juicy red berried fruit.
Buy here https://rainbownationwines.ie/products/marras-cinsault-the-trickster
Oldenburg CL Red 2021 ABV 14% €21.95
Revitalised in 2003, Oldenburg has quickly established itself as a powerful player in the area which is no mean feat given the stature of some of its illustrious Banghoek Valley neighbours like Tokara, Hogan Wines and Thelema. Expect all the typical characteristics of a Stellenbosch Bordeaux blend here in this Cabernet/Merlot with acres of blackcurrant and plum, soft red fruits, green pepper, a touch of violet and gentle spice. Smooth, rich, but succulent with vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh and clean. Decant for an hour beforehand for best results.
Buy here https://rainbownationwines.ie/products/oldenburg-cl-red-blend
*For full transparency and in line with ASAI guidelines, I received the wines for free to review (which is standard) but I have not received any further payment, financial or benefit-in-kind for my work on this article.
Cathal - Galway - Food and Drink Writer | Ex Wine Columnist Business Post | Cook | Recipe Creator | Restaurant Reviewer | Wine and Cocktails Lover | Food Education Enthusiast |
