“What we’ve always looked for is the real deal: the true sons and daughters of the soil. The winemakers who greet you in their work gear, hands-stained crimson with grape juice”.
For Gareth Keogh and his brother Gavin, wine has always been more than just a drink, it has been a way of life. Growing up surrounded by the early days of their family business, Wines Direct, they spent their teenage years fulfilling orders from their kitchen and garage, steeped in a culture of authenticity and passion for the craft. Born from holidays in Bordeaux and built on a mission to support independent winemakers, Wines Direct has evolved into a champion of organic, biodynamic, and terroir-driven wines in Ireland. Their story is one of dedication to real wine, real people, and a vision that goes far beyond the label. I had the opportunity to speak with Gareth about the past, present and future of Wines Direct, while we discuss some of the wines that exemplifies their portfolio and his wine journey.
Can you share a little about your background and how you first got involved in the wine industry? What sparked your passion for wine?
Gavin and I grew up with wine as a central part of our lives. Our family holidays often took us to Bordeaux, where Wine Direct was born. Wine was quite literally in our house – so much so that Gavin even lost his bedroom to the business’s first office.
As teenagers, we spent years filling orders from our kitchen and garage. Eventually, we needed a break from the family business. We left but always felt drawn back. What our father had started was truly unique – especially in the 90s, when very few were importing all their wines directly from vineyards.
The heart of Wine Direct has always been about bringing exceptional wines into Ireland while directly supporting real winemakers. What sparked my passion for wine was the deep connection between the vineyard, the wine, and the winemaker. Each bottle represents a year or more of work and dedication, and there’s something magical about that.
Le Petit Courselle Les Copains Rouge, Bordeaux, France, 2023 (ABV 13.5%) €16.95
Gareth: Going back to the 1990s, our father was dealing with Francis Courselle in Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux. These days, we work with his daughters, Sylvie and Marie where the wine has evolved as well. About ten years ago, Sylvie and Marie recognised that Bordeaux was facing challenges with many of the big châteaux being out of touch with what was happening in the wider wine world. So, they began producing wines under the Vin de France label, allowing for a bit more freedom and creativity. Petit Courselle is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. It’s a fun, juicy wine that, in my view, reflects the future of Bordeaux.
Cathal: This is Bordeaux but not as you know it. Named by the Courselle sisters for their imaginary little brother that they use to blame all their mischief on. Now they put him on a label as here they are breaking the rules in Bordeaux. Ripe berries lead a refreshing nose that extends to the palate in a delightfully juicy concoction of fruit forward juice with a light lick of spice from the syrah. Velvety but with a structured backbone, this has verve and an eccentric character but won’t let you down.
Buy here: https://winesdirect.ie/products/le-petit-courselle-les-copains
“What sparked my passion for wine was the deep connection between the vineyard, the wine, and the winemaker. Each bottle represents a year or more of work and dedication, and there’s something magical about that”.
Wines Direct is known for its focus on independent winemakers. What is the philosophy behind this approach, and how do you choose the producers you work with?
We’ve always steered clear of the big names. Our thinking? If there’s a slick marketer in a sharp suit pulling up in a shiny Mercedes, chances are that’s where your money is going, not back into the vineyard. What we’ve always looked for is the real deal: the true sons and daughters of the soil. The winemakers who greet you in their work gear, hands-stained crimson with grape juice. These are the people who live and breathe their vines, who know every row and root by heart. And more often than not, that’s where the good wine stories begin because at the end of the day, you’ve got to believe in the wine you’re choosing. After all there’ll be a whole pallet of it waiting in the warehouse, ready to be sold in the months ahead.
Bender Paulessen Riesling, Mosel, Germany, 2023 (ABV 12%) €18.50
Gareth: Another compelling story comes from this winemaker, Andreas Bender in the Mosel. As a young winemaker he walked out of Agricultural School in his final year, frustrated by the commercial focus of the curriculum. He believed there was a better, more traditional way to make wine, one rooted in family history and regional authenticity.
His wines tell that story. The Bender family has a long-standing presence in the Mosel, dating back to the 1700s. To distinguish themselves from other Bender families in the area, the eldest son in each generation was traditionally named Paulessen. Hence the name of the wine. His wine is a blend of his vines on the Mosel to reflect a consistent example every year. For the Irish palate, Riesling in particular hits all the right notes: it’s racy, zippy, with beautiful texture and a long, clean finish. It remains, in many ways, a hidden gem.
Bender also has his own opinions of the complexity of German wine regulations, once commenting that “only about 200 people in Germany truly understand the laws.” Despite this, his winemaking remains steeped in tradition save for the label, which is more modern.
Cathal: A beautifully engaging and evocative nose with ripe stone fruit and a touch of minerality in a truly gorgeous (and great value) expression of Mosel riesling. The fruit here is stunning, ripe and juicy with extraordinary length and poise along with the typical mineral finish and zesty acidity that keeps it sharp and fresh. As Gareth says, a hidden gem.
Buy here: https://winesdirect.ie/products/bender-paulessen
Have you noticed any significant changes in Irish wine preferences over the past decade? Are there any emerging trends you find particularly interesting?
There has been a huge swing back to Europe. This is not reflected in national figures because they are skewed by the supermarkets, but our customers have returned to Europe and are moving east. Wines with lower alcohol are becoming more important, as have organic and biodynamic wines.
La Sapata Aligoté, Romania, 2023, (ABV 12.5%), €17.75 (On sale €15.95 at time of writing)
Gareth: Travelling to the furthest east, we arrive in Romania, near the Danube Delta and the border with Ukraine. Here, an adventurous Italian producer, Roberto De Filippo, is working alongside local communities to craft something truly unique. His wines are both organic and biodynamic, with a standout Aligoté that is not only aromatic but also textured and mineral-driven
Romania has a long history of winemaking, though much of it was disrupted during the period of collectivisation. Today, a significant portion of the country’s wine production remains industrial in nature. However, this project is a remarkable exception and exciting discovery that highlights the quality and value still to be found in less traditional regions.
Cathal: When I reviewed the previous vintage of this wine for the Business Post in 2023 I said, “A gentle and tangential foray into Burgundy from the terroir and organic winemaking of Romania”, which is very much true. I also said it was an exciting wine for the price which in hindsight is an understatement, this is incredible value. A wonderfully engaging nose, at once deeply rich and then immediately bright, smart yet evocative and full of character. The palate is a statement of balance, fleshy and textural with a delightful mineral core and lemon zest acidic backbone. The end of my notes simply says, I love this.
Buy here: https://winesdirect.ie/products/la-sapata-aligote
Cathal - Galway - Food and Drink Writer | Ex Wine Columnist Business Post | Cook | Recipe Creator | Restaurant Reviewer | Wine and Cocktails Lover | Food Education Enthusiast |
